A OR B is a seductive frame. Surfing offers AND. Exhausted AND exhilarated. Competent and kook. Thrilled and ticked off. How does AND show up in your sessions?

Written By Andrew Hapke
Andrew Hapke
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What is your relationship to risk and reward? Surfing's scariest moments often become meaningful memories. Where else is that true in your life?
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A crowded lineup can be a competitive strategy game. To "win" your waves, you must constantly analyze the conditions and each person you are surfing "against."