Mind the Surf
Short Friday reflections on what surfing teaches.
Each time we paddle out we have the chance not just to have fun and get some exercise. We also have time by ourselves to think. What are you thinking about out in the water? Mind the Surf is an invitation to think a little differently the next time you surf. To notice all the ways surfing challenges us, teaches us and enriches our lives. This list is for those who know that surfing is something deeper than a just a sport or a hobby.
1 text each Friday gives you something new to reflect on when you paddle out
What do these texts say though?
“The magic we experience at our home break when a swell arrives is a direct result of the turmoil somewhere else on the globe.'“
“Of course we remember the sessions when the waves were firing. But actually the most memorable and magical sessions are the ones that defy expectations. When the waves or the crowd was just so much better than expected. How do we keep the froth level in check to the point where most sessions feel that good? Like gifts?”
“Are you the kind of surfer who is always optimizing? What spot will have the best waves given this swell, tide, wind and crowd? Or are you the type of surfer who goes to the same spot - again and again - no matter the conditions - appreciating the many faces of your home break throughout the year?”
“Surfing has a tradition of respect for our elders. Thank god. If it didn’t we’d be paddling circles around them and they’d never get any waves. And yet, this is a deal you make with the surfing community. And it requires trust that when you are old the respect will still be there.
“Yesterday I saw a local legend on a fun chest high wave - STOKED. A guy in his 60s still hooting and hollering when he gets a good one. If you can find a way to truly enjoy yourself at that age and after you’ve surfed thousands of waves - you are doing it right.”