Mind the Surf

Short Friday reflections for the moments in between waves.

Going surfing isn’t just about the waves we catch or the calories we burn.  It’s also about the time we get to ourselves. To think. To notice. To learn.  

Mind the Surf is an invitation to experience surfing a little differently. To pay attention to what surfing teaches.

This is a space for those who know that surfing is something deeper than a sport or a hobby.

1 text each Friday gives you something to reflect on when you paddle out

  • One short text each week

  • One idea to sit with in the water

  • No spam, just a prompt

Wave at First Point Malibu

Here are a few recent reflections:

“The magic we experience at our home break when a swell arrives is a direct result of the turmoil somewhere else on the globe.'“

“Are you the kind of surfer who is always optimizing? What spot will have the best waves given this swell, tide, wind and crowd? Or are you the type of surfer who goes to the same spot - again and again - no matter the conditions - appreciating the many faces of your home break throughout the year?”

“Surfing has a tradition of respect for our elders. Thank god. If it didn’t we’d be paddling circles around them and they’d never get any waves. And yet, this is a deal you make with the surfing community. It requires trust that when you are old the respect will still be there. 

“Yesterday I saw a local legend on a fun chest high wave - STOKED.  A guy in his 60s still hooting and hollering when he gets a good one.  If you can find a way to truly enjoy yourself at that age after you’ve surfed thousands of waves - you are doing it right.”